Bond Investment Strategies

5 min read

Bond Investment StrategiesBonds are designed to deliver both capital preservation and income, and are generally considered lower risk than stock investing. The purchase price of a bond is basically a loan to an issuer, such as the federal government, a municipal government, or a corporation. The term of the loan is determined for a specific period of time – referred to as the maturity date.

During that time, the issuer uses bond money to fund projects, and in return pays the buyer interest over the term of the loan. Once the term ends, the bond issuer pays back the money it borrowed (i.e., the purchase price). The interest is paid on a predetermined schedule – quarterly, semiannually, or annually. The interest rate on a bond is called the coupon rate, and it is fixed at the time of issuance and remains the same until the bond matures.

For example, say you purchase a 10-year bond for $10,000 with a coupon rate of 4 percent, paid twice a year.. Over the 10 years you’ll collect $4,000 in interest, and at maturity you get your $10,000 back. That’s a 40 percent cumulative return on the original investment.

Bonds with a maturity date of less than four years are considered short-term; between four and 10 years are considered intermediate-term bonds; and terms of 10 or more years are considered long-term bonds. Bonds can be useful in many ways, such as to provide income, save for a particular expense, or to seek out high interest rates for a higher total return. The following are a few bond strategies to address each type of objective.

Objective: Generate Income

To generate income over a long period of time – when interest rates tend to fluctuate – one strategy is to ladder bond holdings. This means purchasing a portfolio of individual bonds with varying maturity dates. For example, you may spread out your bond terms from one to 30 years – with each interval acting as a rung on this metaphorical ladder. Note that each type of bond is rated for the credit quality of the issuer, which reflects its likelihood of default. The lower the credit rating, the higher the interest paid to compensate for the issuer’s extra risk.

As each bond matures, you can reinvest money into another bond based on the current prices and coupon rates on offer at that time. This way you may continue to shop for higher coupon rates every few years without locking up all of your money for a 10-, 20-, or 30-year duration. When rates are on the rise, you can secure a higher yield as your bonds mature. If rates are falling, reinvest that money in a short-term bond as a holding pattern until coupon rates increase again. This way, you continue to benefit from owning longer-term bonds purchased when rates were higher. Barring any defaults, the ladder continues to grow and offer steady growth for bond assets.

Objective: Save for a Particular Expense

The Bullet strategy is a simple way to generate the money you need for a specific financial goal within a specific time frame – such as buying a house in five years, or saving for college or a retirement nest egg in 10 or 20 years. You basically purchase bonds with a similar maturity date. Between the purchase price and the generated income, you’ll know exactly how much you will receive when those bonds mature. It’s like shooting a bullet straight toward your financial goal.

Objective: Seek Higher Interest

The Barbell strategy splits your money between the two ends of the maturity range and skips the middle. You hold short-term bonds on one end and long-term bonds on the other, with little or nothing in between, much like the weights sitting at either end of a barbell.

The long end captures the higher coupon rates that generally come with committing money for a longer period. The short end keeps a portion of your money coming due on a regular basis, so each time one of those bonds matures, you can re-evaluate rates and decide where that money goes next. If rates have moved higher, shift it to the long end and lock in the better coupon. If rates remain tepid, buy another short-term bond and wait. The result is a portfolio that captures much of the yield available at the long end without committing everything to a rate you may later regret.

There are many different types of bonds, including federal government, municipal government, and corporate bonds. While government bonds are generally considered safe, each bond is issued a credit rating based on the issuer’s financial health, creditworthiness, and past history of repaying debt obligations. Investors also have the option to invest in bond funds, which offer a large selection of bonds and do not require investments to be held to maturity. However, bond fund interest rates fluctuate daily, and there is no guarantee the investor will receive the original principal amount when they cash out of the fund.

How to Keep Your Cash When You Make Good Money

4 min read

How to Keep Your Cash When You Make Good MoneyYou’re doing well, earning a good salary. But somewhere around the latter part of the month, after you’ve paid your obligations and basically lived your life, which isn’t extravagant, you look at your checking and savings accounts, and well, there isn’t much there. And that sinking feeling starts to kick in. Sound familiar?

This is called lifestyle inflation. In a nutshell, the way you spend increases over time in relation to your rising income, so your financial floor rises right along with it. In fact, according to a Federal Reserve Survey of Consumer Finances, households that earn between $100,000 and $200,000 are in sizeable credit card debt, have retirement accounts that need help, and very little savings in relation to their income. What to do? Here are a few ways to get a handle on this.

Get a real number. You might have all your expenses in QuickBooks or the like and, on paper, you look good. But to get a real picture of how you’re doing, calculate the expected net worth you should have for someone at your age with your salary: Multiply your age by your salary, then divide it by ten. If your net worth is below half that number, something’s not adding up. Pun intended. The next critical step: Subtract your liabilities from your assets. This might not feel good, but from this you’ll instantly see what you can affect and change.

Pinpoint the source of your lifestyle inflation. It might not be huge expenses, but little pricey purchases over time that are causing you to feel financially squeezed. Go to your spreadsheet and take a look at the last three years and compare. See where you’ve spent more, calculate the difference, and there’s your answer. Areas to consider are housing, dining, subscriptions and services, travel, gifts, clothing, etc. Don’t make drastic changes all at once, as you might rebound and splurge. Just try to reduce your spending in the areas with the biggest deltas. Give yourself 60 days. Easy does it for lasting change­. This might be a smart mantra.

Set up intentional constraints in certain areas. As mentioned above, you don’t need to become a fiscal conservative. Just look at the areas where things feel a bit…much. Here are three principles to work with:

  • Decide on savings and investment allocations for payday. There are non-negotiables you can put on auto-draft. If you don’t see it, you won’t miss it.
  • Determine a set number for each category. But approach these numbers as conscious decisions, not as a way to restrict yourself. You’re choosing not to spend $500 on dinner each week because in relation to the rest of your goals, this makes sense.
  • Set up a discretionary account. You know, fun money. This is a fixed monthly transfer amount without overdraft protection. When the money’s gone, it’s gone. This isn’t a way to frustrate or shame yourself; you just have a real window into what you’re spending, rather than some vague notion. This creates real clarity.

Reimagine your social spending. We’re talking dinners out with friends, group trips, or even the things that just feel normal, like wedding and birthday gifts. This might be the hardest part of all. So here’s a tip: Don’t let these things sneak up on you. Plan for these events in advance and give yourself a price range to stay within. This way, you stay on track and don’t miss out on important moments.

The truth is that your income might well continue to increase. You’ll get that raise and bonus. So instead of living it up and spending with wild abandon, try this: for every raise or bonus, put at least 50 percent of the net increase toward savings or investments before changing anything about your lifestyle, i.e., buying that new car, etc. The other 50 percent? Make intentional choices about how you want to spend. Conscious decisions pay off in the long run. And best of all, you won’t continue to feel broke.

IRS Raises Mileage Rates Midyear: What You Need to Know

4 min read

IRS Raises Mileage Rates Midyear, IRS Raises Mileage Rates 2026For the first time since 2022, the IRS is changing standard mileage rates in the middle of the tax year. If you track business, medical or moving miles, this matters. Starting July 1, 2026, the numbers go up, and your recordkeeping needs to get more precise.

What Changed and Why

The IRS bumped the business mileage rate from 72.5 cents to 76 cents per mile for travel on or after July 1, 2026. Medical and moving rates rose from 20.5 cents to 23.5 cents. The charitable rate stays put at 14 cents, where it has been stuck since 1998.

The trigger was fuel prices. When the IRS set the original 2026 rates back in December, gas was averaging about $2.89 per gallon nationally. By mid-July 2026, AAA reported the average had climbed to roughly $3.87, an increase of 34 percent. Much of that spike traces back to the war in Iran and uncertainty around oil production and shipping through the Strait of Hormuz.

The last time the IRS made a midyear adjustment was 2022, after Russia invaded Ukraine and gas prices surged past $5 per gallon in some markets.

Two Sets of Rates for One Year

This creates a split year for mileage calculations. Miles driven from January 1 through June 30 use the original rates. Miles driven on or after July 1 use the revised rates. If you drove 4,000 medical miles before July and another 4,000 after, you would calculate them separately: $820 for the first half at 20.5 cents, $940 for the second half at 23.5 cents.

The same logic applies to employer reimbursements. The new rates kick in only when both the expense and the reimbursement occur on or after July 1. Employers running accountable plans should review their policies to make sure they are applying the correct rate based on when the travel happened and when the payment goes out.

Why the Rates Differ by Category

The business rate is higher because it accounts for both fixed and variable costs of operating a vehicle: depreciation, insurance, maintenance, tires, gas and oil. Medical and moving rates cover only variable costs, which is why they sit lower.

The charitable rate is a different animal entirely. Congress set it by statute, and it has not budged in nearly three decades. Adjusted for inflation, 14 cents from 1998 would be closer to 29 cents today.

Who Can Actually Use These Rates

Here is where it gets narrower than many taxpayers expect. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act eliminated the deduction for unreimbursed employee business expenses starting in 2018, and the One Big Beautiful Bill Act made that change permanent. Most employees cannot write off business mileage whether their employer reimburses them or not.

Moving expense deductions are similarly limited. Only active duty military members moving under orders for a permanent change of station qualify, along with certain intelligence community members under rules effective for 2026.

Charitable mileage requires itemizing, which means it only helps if your total deductions exceed the standard deduction of $16,100 for single filers or $32,200 for married couples filing jointly. Many taxpayers skip it.

Self-employed individuals and business owners get the most benefit from the business rate since they can still deduct qualifying mileage on Schedule C.

Recordkeeping Just Got Harder

Normally, tracking mileage means logging dates, destinations, miles driven, and business purpose. This year, you also need to note which side of July 1 the expense falls on. A mileage app can help, but a notebook or spreadsheet works, too.

If you use a vehicle exclusively for business, beginning and end-of-year odometer readings establish total mileage. Photos can serve as backup. If you mix business and personal use, your records need to clearly separate the two.

Conclusion

Gas prices forced the IRS’s hand, and now 2026 has two mileage rate regimes. The math is not complicated, but the documentation requirements are tighter than usual. Know when your miles were driven, keep clean records and make sure your employer’s reimbursement policies reflect the July 1 cutoff. The details matter this year more than most.